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Fabrication 3: Construction

September 16, 2014 By Danielle

As promised, here are my photos from the Fabrication 3 class I took at Revere in July. The two projects were a sweat-soldered layered brooch, and a hollow box ring.

The brooch was a fun project, as we used a rolling mill to impress the silver with patterns from fabric, paper, and plastic textures. I patterned the base of my brooch with a glittery tulle fabric, and paper-punched snowflakes. The top layer was rolled with 220-grit sandpaper. I domed the two layers, then soldered them together (which was harder than I bargained for, LOL), and soldered on the back pin hinge and catch.

Materials for patterning metals with the rolling mill, July 2014
Design sketches, materials for patterning metals with the rolling mill.
Bottom silver sheet for brooch, with patterning materials, July 2014
Bottom silver sheet for brooch, with patterning materials.
Patterned top and bottom silver sheets for brooch, July 2014
Patterned top and bottom silver sheets for brooch.
Top layer shaped and domed for brooch, July 2014
Top layer shaped and domed for brooch.
Top and bottom layers domed, ready for soldering, July 2014
Top and bottom layers domed, ready for soldering.
Top and bottom soldered together, July 2014
Top and bottom brooch layers soldered together.
Ready to solder on the brooch hinge and catch, July 2014
Ready to solder on the brooch hinge and catch.
Pin attached, not long enough! July 2014
Pin attached, not long enough!
Brooch pin adjusted to stretch across, whew! July 2014
Brooch pin adjusted to stretch across, whew!
Finished brooch, July 2014
Finished brooch.

The hollow box ring was quite challenging. It starts as two long strips, the inner ring and outer wall. The inner strip is soldered together into a ring; the outer strip is soldered to the outside of the inner ring. In the end, the bottom half of the ring is solid metal, and the top is hollow. Once attached, these are soldered onto a flat sheet, forming the first side of the hollow ring, which is then cut out from the sheet and cut out on the inside (remaking the finger hole, basically.) Once this is done, you repeat the process with the other side, forming a box ring with an open top.

There’s a lot of filing and finishing to be done at this point, to make all the corners square and flush. A pattern is chosen for the top, and the final bit of soldering is done (there must be a hole either in the top piece, or drilled through the bottom part of the hollow ring, else the ring will explode during the final solder. No, really.) I got as far as soldering the top on, and then finished the final trimming, filing and polishing closer to home.

An assortment of hollow box rings, in various stages of completion and decoration.
An assortment of hollow box rings, in various stages of completion and decoration.
Soldering the inner and outer ring shank together.
Soldering the inner and outer ring shank together.
Inner and outer shanks attached, filed flat.
Ready to solder on the first side!
Ready to solder on the first side!
First side soldered on, pre-pickling (not cleaned)
First side soldered on, pre-pickling (not cleaned)
PIckled, ready to cut out inner hole and outer shape.
PIckled, ready to cut out inner hole and outer shape.
All cut out, and ready for side two!
All cut out, and ready for side two!
Side two soldered on, ready to pickle.
Side two soldered on, ready to pickle.
Both sides cut out, ready to file and sand.
Both sides cut out, ready to file and sand.
Filed and sanded, ready to solder on the top.
Filed and sanded, ready to solder on the top.
Another view, pre-top.
Another view, pre-top.
Top soldered on, just needs to be trimmed, filed, and polished.
Top soldered on, just needs to be trimmed, filed, and polished.
Finished hollow box ring, July 2014
Finished hollow box ring, July 2014

Filed Under: Goldsmithing & Jewelry Tagged With: brooches, goldsmithing, jewelry, rings

Céleste, Comète

March 7, 2012 By Danielle

Chanel Céleste brooch in white gold, diamonds, and pearls.
Chanel Céleste brooch in white gold, diamonds, and pearls. One of a kind.

Why am I so excited, you ask? Because Chanel created a line of celestial jewelry JUST FOR ME. (Okay, not just for me. But it is a jewelry line after my own heart.)

Chanel Comète Ring in 18K white gold, sapphires, diamonds, and sapphire crystal.
Chanel Comète Ring in 18K white gold, sapphires, diamonds, and sapphire crystal. "Price upon request."

Launching the Comète line are some amazing one-off pieces, in celebration of the 80th anniversary of Gabrielle Chanel’s 1932 Exhibition de Bijoux en Diamants. These pieces will tour the world in a traveling exhibition — this article has more photos.

Of the one-of-a-kind pieces I’ve seen, my favorite is the Céleste brooch above. The soft colors, the combination of glowing pearls and sparkling diamonds, and the design elements (stars! rings! planets!) are hitting me in all my vulnerable spots. This piece has me palpitating.

From the Comète line, I adore the sapphire and diamond Comète ring (available, but “price upon request.” Eep.) I can’t fathom how something like that is created, but I LIKE IT. I LIKE IT A LOT.

In conclusion, all the starry things are gorgeous. I hope you agree!

Filed Under: Inspiration Tagged With: bracelets, brooches, celestial, chanel, diamond, pearls, rings, sapphires, stars

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