Many Faceted

Starting Gem Identification

By

My first box of stones!A few weeks ago, I started Gem Identification, the last class I need for my Graduate Gemologist degree. Over the span of the class, I will receive a total of 500 gemstones to analyze at home, using my own lab equipment. (20 stones per box, 25 boxes.) This culminates in the final, a 20-stone “all or none” challenge, where I have six hours to correctly identify 20 stones. “All or none” means exactly what it says – if I miss one stone, I fail. (I can retake it, but it will be with another box of stones, which will probably be completely different.)

I have the required set of equipment (10x loupe, refractometer, polariscope, spectroscope, dichroscope, tweezers, flashlight to stare into), plus a short-wave/long-wave UV lamp (which is great fun for making things fluoresce. Like diamonds. Or cool rocks.) The one piece of equipment that isn’t required, which I’ll probably get eventually, is a microscope. It has better indirect lighting (“darkfield” lighting), making it easier to see things inside the stone that are low-relief. (Some of those things can tell you whether the stone is natural or synthetic, for instance. Important stuff!)

I received my first box of stones on July 20. This box is used with the first several lessons, to help train you in using the various pieces of lab equipment. The stones in box 1 are chosen to show good/obvious examples of various things: a characteristic spectrum, or obvious features visible with magnification, or a specific reaction under the polariscope. After learning about the instruments, I analyzed and correctly identified all twenty stones. (The course gives a lot of helpful hints.)

After I “passed” this box, I sent it back, and am waiting for the next one to arrive. (Cue Jeopardy music.)

So far I’m really enjoying the course. I’ve always liked “lab” better than “lecture” — I guess I’m the hands-on type? — and it’s fun to get a stone to reveal it’s secrets…. I can’t wait to get my next box!

Adventures in Tucson: GJX, Hotel Tucson City Center

By

Rutilated Quartz Sphere
Rutilated quartz sphere

As mentioned in part one of my adventures, one weekend in Tucson was too much fun for one post; here’s part two!

Before I go any farther, while researching the shop where I saw the quartz sphere to your right, I found that someone made a video of it. It’s much more impressive in motion; none of my photos really captured how cool it was. Saw this at Fine Minerals International, around the corner from Hotel Tucson City Center. Think bowling-ball size?

Across the street from the AGTA GemFair was the Gem and Jewelry Exchange, another wholesale show that I had been advised would be “colorful”, with many foreign vendors. Armed with my AGTA badge, I was able to exchange my business card for a GJX sticker, and waltz right in for free. Note to self: business card = legitimacy. Never mind that any idiot can have a business card printed… myself most certainly included! Unfortunately, GJX had a large “no photography” notice at the door.

GJX was quite different from AGTA. While browsing a dealer of included quartz, I cheerfully haggled with an Italian man whose span of English was the word “OK?” If I picked something up for more than a second or two, he would take it from my hand, calculate a price, and show me the calculator, saying “OK? OK?” If I took the stone back, or started browsing again, this process would repeat, resulting in a lower price. Eventually I caved and bought two stones (for the original price of the first stone.) It was too fun!

I stopped by the booths of two faceting rock stars. The first was John Dyer, gemstone artist extraordinaire. Mr. Dyer is self-taught, and has earned almost 40 faceting awards since 2002. He and his adorable wife Lydia were working the booth, both bubbling with enthusiasm (and who wouldn’t be, given the stones they were showing? GORGEOUS stuff.) I love what he does with ametrine.

The second was Constantin Wild, of the long Idar-Oberstein faceting tradition in Germany. Mr. Wild’s booth was quite posh (he even had a cushy couch for meeting with clients), his stones were insanely beautiful, and he has a beautiful book out. (Sadly I couldn’t pick one up; I had very few pennies left at that point.) I also visited Palladot, and saw a breathtaking display of extraterrestrial peridot. (The per-carat prices made me want to cry. Alas, earwax.)

The Arizona Mineral & Fossil Show at Hotel Tucson City Center
A hotel turns into multi-level rock shopping!

My second day in Tucson, I paid a visit to the Arizona Mineral & Fossil Show at Hotel Tucson City Center, which was a lot of fun, partially because the set-up is so unreal. Gem dealers book hotel rooms, move out the furniture, install display cases and open for business! (I think they sleep in there too, somewhere.) Patrons wander from building to building, room to room, and the hotel helpfully installs signs outside each room indicating what business resides there (temporarily.) I went there to meet Geoff Notkin, of the Meteorite Men tv show, and stayed for loads of interesting vendors. One was set up as a complete darkroom, selling fluorescent minerals! (I bought a few; once I get a proper UV lamp, I’ll attempt to photograph them.)

Animatronic dinosaurs at the Arizona Mineral & Fossil Show
Animatronic dinosaurs.

In the courtyard by the pool, and out front, animatronic dinosaurs hung out and roared at passers-by. I went on Sunday morning, and returned in the afternoon, which ended up being perfect timing, as the crowds cleared as soon as the Superbowl started. (Huzzah, a whole rock show mostly to myself!) I saw some amazing meteorites, and a lot of beautiful pallasites. There were many vendors dedicated to minerals from a specific locale (Russia, Ethiopia, etc), which were fascinating to browse through.

There were tents and tables set up in practically every empty lot in Tucson (that’s how it seemed), and I walked through some of them on “Hotel Row”. I walked into one tent and saw a fully-articulated mammoth skeleton, and a triceratops skull sitting on the ground. Other places had beads, finished jewelry, rough material, anything you could imagine.

In closing, I’d like to share my friend Robyn’s photo, as it’s hilarious (and also gives some scale for my final photo):

Dinosaur at Hotel Tucson City Center front entrance
Dinosaur at the front entrance - look out, FedEx guy! Photo by Robyn Hawk.

While you ponder the fate of the FedEx man, did you notice the blackish blob-thing by the dinosaur’s tail? It was a giant amethyst cavity. Here’s the one that was standing across from it, which was not quite as big (sorry for the poor photo, not enough light.)

Giant amethyst cavity, seen at the Arizona Mineral & Fossil Show entrance (Hotel Tucson City Center)
Amethyst cavity, 8-10 feet tall?

Two Trips to GIA Carlsbad

By

GIA Carlsbad
Front entrance, GIA Carlsbad

I never did tell you about my first trip to Carlsbad, so now you get a two-for-one blog post about both trips. That’s three, three, THREE LABS in one!

So first, let me show you around.

The first thing I noticed when I got to GIA Carlsbad — because it’s quite sparkly in the morning light — is the campus “bell tower”. (I don’t know what it’s actually supposed to be, it just reminds me of a bell tower.) Instead of a bell, there’s a rotating figure of a diamond crystal, strung with Swarovski crystals, surrounding a silvery faceted “diamond”. Out front, there’s a life-size statue of gemologist and founder, Richard Liddicoat. You can see me befriending Mr. Liddicoat here.

GIA's "back yard", a beautiful common area for hanging out, eating lunch, etc "Diamond" Bell Tower at GIA Carlsbad GIA Carlsbad campus, looking toward the sea

The building is airy and bright inside, with a library, museum, cafe and lobby in front, classrooms in the middle (upstairs and downstairs), and a large student common room in the back, open to the second story. There’s lots of room to relax, get snacks, play ping-pong, and walk around.

If you need a breath of fresh air, there’s a large outdoor patio and lawn, with plenty of places to sit and eat lunch, and superb views of the sea. GIA overlooks The Flower Fields at Carlsbad Ranch, so I’d imagine the view is even more dramatic, once spring arrives! (Which looks to be about now; The Flower Fields open on Thursday. Did I mention we had a massive snowstorm last night, in the frozen north? I don’t think I did.)

Water Opal, 10.35 carats, part of the Dr. E. Gübelin collection at GIA Carlsbad
Water Opal, 10.35 carats

Unsurprisingly, there’s a lot of gemstones and jewelry on display, and I spent most of my free time enjoying it. I admit, mostly I was glued to one particular display case (in the student common room), featuring stones from the Dr. Eduard Gübelin collection. Dr. Gübelin was a prominent gemologist who had an unbelievable personal collection of stones, of which the water opal to your left is but one.

One that stood out to me (no decent photo, sorry) was a 13.23 carat taaffeite, a lovely pinkish-purple stone, one of the rarest gemstones in the world. There’s also a gorgeous alexandrite that I desperately wanted to see change color — GIA should install some sort of push-button light-switching device, like an interactive museum display. Make it happen, GIA. I want to push that button!

But what you really want to hear about maybe is my lab experiences.

I took Colored Stone Grading and Pearl Grading in November, and Gem Identification at the end of January. They were all a blast; my favorite by far was Gem Ident. It was definitely the most challenging, but I loved using the equipment and figuring out what a stone was (and what it was not). This will sound super-nerdy, but I love my lab manual. It is a magical, wonderful tome of gemstone-demystifying.

Comparing pearl luster
Comparing pearl luster

I enjoyed Pearl Grading — or maybe I should say, I thoroughly enjoyed the pearls; I found the grading pretty difficult. It was marvelous to see and handle green and grey Tahitian pearls, golden South Sea pearls, pastel Chinese freshwater pearls… I graded a bright golden South Sea pearl shaped like an acorn, with beautiful pink and green overtones and excellent luster. (Golden and shiny!) I had a hard time determining body color (base/background color), versus overtone (an overlay of secondary color), versus orient (multiple overtones.) Is it green, with a pink overtone… or is it gray, with pink and green orient? I salute the experts in this field. (I am not one of them.)

I spent my time in Colored Stone Grading looking at as many different species of stones as possible. The more, the merrier! I partook in much “microscope therapy”, as one of my wonderful instructors put it, and got lost in the jardin of emerald inclusions. (Jardin is French for “garden”, and it’s an apt description of what you see when you look at an emerald under magnification. Marvelous stuff.)

After microscope therapy, I promptly mis-graded the clarity of my emerald, having been overwhelmed by SO MANY INCLUSIONS. The grading system changes based on the type of stone, for each grade; an emerald could never have Excellent clarity if it were compared to, say, an aquamarine. Emeralds are almost always included; aquamarines are frequently water-clear. My emerald was Excellent; I think I graded it a Fair. Oops.

Gem Ident left the biggest impression on me, because it was amazing. While I have a lot of learning and practicing to do, I’m astounded that I can actually determine what a stone is (most likely.) I can’t wait to get my own set of equipment and start identifying things I have on hand. It’s so exciting!

Adventures in Tucson: the AGTA GemFair

By

Entrance to the AGTA GemFair Tucson
AGTA GemFair welcomes you!

Even just one weekend in Tucson is too much adventure for one post, so first I’ll tell you about the AGTA GemFair, and show what bits I was allowed to photograph. The AGTA GemFair was my first stop in Tucson, and I spent the most time there, overall. It was a kaleidoscope of fine gems and finished jewelry, and (in my experience) very friendly people. I spent as much time chatting and networking as I did oggling!

The show floor, as seen from the Galleria
Just before the show opens...

I got to the show at around 9:30 am, Saturday the 4th, checked in, received my guidebook and fluorescent orange tote bag, and spent the time before show opening looking over the Galleria booths (societies, schools, and information-type things) and eyeing the GIA “Mega Gems” display (see last post.) I had some very good conversations that morning! I also strolled through the Designer Pavilion and admired some of the AGTA Spectrum Award winners. (What can I say? Not all modern jewelry is to my taste. I like my jewelry wearable, I guess….)

The Hooker Emerald, part of the National Gem Collection, visits courtesy of the Smithsonian Institute
The Hooker Emerald visits Tucson

One of my first stops on the show floor (and the only part I could take pictures of) was the Smithsonian Institution’s gem display. As I haven’t yet been to see the National Gem Collection in Washington, DC, this was my first in-person look at the Hooker Emerald. A 75.47-carat Colombian emerald (over an inch square, by my guess), the Hooker Emerald “was once the property of Abdul Hamid II, Sultan of the Ottoman Empire (1876-1909), who according to legend, wore it in his belt buckle.” (Description from the Smithsonian Institution.) AWESOME.

Peridot, 100.15 carats, Pakistan
Peridot, 100.15 carats

I also enjoyed seeing some new donations to the National Gem Collection, including a faceted, extraterrestrial peridot (donated by Palladot); a gorgeous, 100.15 carat terrestrial peridot from Pakistan; and a colorful 43.52 carat sphene (titanite). I came back to this booth a few times. (And back upstairs to the Mega Gems display; the contents are exactly what it sounds like. Big stuff.)

I made a beeline for the Pala Gems booth, particularly to see this amazing bi-color topaz, but also to look around. I adore Pala’s website, and it was a treat to see some of those stones in person.

43.52 carat sphene (titanite)
43.52 carat sphene

I saw a lot of amazing opal: fantastic arrays of Ethiopian opals, lovely fire opals from Nevada (not so fiery, but a warm, sunny glow), and boulder opal from Australia. Some sellers had mined and cut the material themselves. It was a pleasure to talk to them; enthusiastic about their wares, and eager to share their knowledge. I was told before I went to Tucson that I could trust anything I bought at AGTA GemFair. I definitely felt that to be the case. Sellers were open about stone origins and treatments, and I think I learned a lot! I met some terrific people that day.

Among the terrific people I met was AGTA CEO Doug Hucker, who is also one of the first confirmed readers I’ve had here at Many Faceted (besides friends and family.) Hi, Doug! It’s a neat, and still pretty new experience for me, to meet someone who reads my online ramblings. I bet readership would go up if I rambled more often. Still working on a regular posting schedule.

It’s been nearly three weeks and I still feel I have a ton of experiences to sift through, mentally, all from that first day at AGTA. (Yes folks, we’re still on Saturday; haven’t even touched Sunday yet. Stay tuned!) So while I sift, and prepare the next segment of my Tucson adventures, I leave you with a faceted quartz the size of a football (okay, maybe not quite that big. But BIG.)

Note on photos: click to enlarge. If you got all the way down here without clicking on anything, please know that I would never deprive you of jumbo-size gem images. That’s mean.

Quartz, 21,299 carats
Quartz, 21,299 carats. Yes, you read that right. It's a big'un.

Joining the AGTA

By

AGTA lapel pin
Yes, it's my official AGTA lapel pin!

I feel funny having a “Joining the…” post two posts after a “Joining the…” post, but it’s my own fault for not getting the rest of my GIA museum photos processed and uploaded. (By the way, I should tell you all about my GIA visit and labs, before I go there again, a month from today. Eheh.) ANNNYYYWAYYY….

So I’m going to Tucson in February, after my lab. Yes, TUCSON!!! (Just for the weekend.)

This all started when I noticed that my Gem ID lab in Carlsbad (January 30 – February 3) coincides with the first week of Tucson’s rock-n-gem show extravaganza, including the AGTA Gem Fair. (39 shows spanning three-ish weeks. Intense.) At first, I only thought as far as, “what sucky timing, that’s the week I’m in lab!” Then someone asked how far Tucson was from Carlsbad. The gears, they turned. Flights and lodging arrangements came together. And suddenly, I was going straight from lab, to the airport, to Tucson. TUCSON!!!

My first purpose in going to Tucson is networking opportunities, and as such, I want to go to two wholesale shows: AGTA Gem Fair and GJX. Since I could join AGTA as a student member now (and thereby qualify for pre-registration), I sent off my check and proof of enrollment in early December. (Lest I forget, my second purpose is to oggle as many gems and minerals as humanly possible, without uh… bankrupting myself. Eheh.)

My box of swag, brochures, DVDs and goodies from AGTA
Look at all these goodies!!

So I’ve been waiting for what I thought would be a small packet from AGTA: a letter, a membership card or whatever, maybe a pamphlet. Instead, today, I got a BOX OF FUN. What you see here is numerous information booklets; the latest issue of their magazine, Prism; two DVDs of AGTA Gem Fair seminars (from 2010 and 2011); the AGTA Source Directory (members), including wholesale suppliers, retailers, appraisers, and a student section (thats-a ME! Or it will be, next time it’s published.) Also, an AGTA lapel pin, a membership certificate, a pretty postcard, and two window clings (I put it up, with my GIA Alumni cling, in my home-office window. That way, people driving down my street can see how awesome I am. Or something. Awesome is probably not the word that applies here.)

I’m amazed at what my AGTA membership entails, and all the benefits I’ll get from it! Admission to the AGTA Gem Fair in February seems like a bonus, compared to what I’ve already received.

The Stewart Lithia Mine

By

Lepidolite and pink tourmaline in the Stewart Lithia Mine, Pala, California
Pink tourmaline and lepidolite on the mine walls

Earlier this month I made my first trip to the Carlsbad area of California, north of San Diego, to take GIA’s Colored Stones Grading and Pearl Grading labs. Before class started, however, I had my first gem adventure: a field trip to the Stewart Lithia Mine in Pala, California. This mine has a long history, over 100 years on and off, first mined for the lovely purple mineral lepidolite (for its lithium, used primarily in grease), and later for a variety of gems (most of them pink.) Pink, green, bi-color and black tourmaline is found here, as well as kunzite, morganite and heliodor (pink and yellow varieties of beryl), and quartz.

San Diego County is known for its pegmatite deposits — lenses of igneous rock with large/abundant crystals, usually a dozen feet thick, give or take — and the Stewart Lithia mine sits in an unbelievably thick pegmatite (120 feet thick, in some places.) The geology was quite interesting driving out to Pala from the coast, with mountains looking like piles of boulders, from a distance. (Okay, so it was interesting to me. Never mind.)

Looking for gems on the slopes above the Stewart Lithia Mine, Pala, California
Looking for gems is hot work!

Gem-finding is hard work under the sun (which got uncomfortably warm, despite the low-for-San-Diego temperatures.) Fabulous gem rough was found, but not by me — a few chunks of gemmy rubellite (pink tourmaline) in the 30-40 carat range, and a gorgeous gemmy bi-color (green to seafoam blue) tourmaline crystal, easily two inches long. We were told to limit ourselves to ten pounds of rock apiece (!!), but I brought home a bit less since I had to fit it all in my suitcase.

Rock finds from the Stewart Lithia Mine
What I brought home. Please excuse my hotel bathroom sink.

After lunch, we toured the mine. I didn’t take many pictures inside (none with flash, out of respect for everyone’s low-light vision), but the workings were quite impressive.

Entrance to the Stewart Lithia Mine
The mine entrance. Peligro!

In the lower levels, we saw a remarkable mineral formation, where white spodumene crystals against a dark grey background formed a perfect Chinese dragon, easily 15-18 feet long (complete with head, teeth, ear, eye and sinuous body.) At the bottom was a lake of pure, ancient water, rich in calcium. (If you breathe upon the water, the calcium absorbs the carbon dioxide you exhale and forms calcium carbonate crystals on the surface. Magical.) The water was quite drinkable, and tasted wonderfully smooth. I admit, the lake was my favorite part.

All in all, it was a wonderful day! If you’d like to see more pictures, check out the set on Flickr.

Joining the Roxy Anns

By

Danielle is a Roxy Ann now!
Shiny new membership

Ever since I was in a stroller, I’ve been going to the Roxy Ann Gem & Mineral Society‘s annual rock show in Medford, Oregon. (My dad pointed this fact out to me, at this year’s show.) Based in Central Point, Oregon, the Society operates the Crater Rock Museum with a terrific collection of minerals, lapidary arts, Oregon thundereggs, arrowheads and more. They also have a large workshop and offer classes in cabochon-making (“cabbing”) and silversmithing, both of which I’m interested in exploring. Right now I’m in love with all aspects of the gemstone and jewelry industry, and my interest could carry me in several directions. I’m trying to explore as many different avenues as I can, while I’m still “in school” and at leisure to weigh my options.

Third-largest rhodochrosite crystal in the world, right here in Central Point!
Colossal rhodochrosite!

I joined the Roxy Anns yesterday, my first “rockhound club” — I’m happy to support their activities, and I get access to their workshop and other benefits out of the deal. I was given a tour of the facilities and museum by a volunteer named Jack, who teaches knapping (arrowhead-making, etc); some of this work was on display, all of it lovely. The museum has some gorgeous mineral specimens, most notably (to me) the one seen to your left. Rhodochrosite is a beautiful red/pink mineral that is quite rare in large, crystalline form. The largest and best specimens come from the Sweet Home Mine in Alma, Colorado, and are treasured by the finest museums in the world. Needless to say, I was surprised to see that, not only does Crater Rock Museum have one, it is the third largest rhodochrosite crystal IN THE WORLD. Yes. Third-largest. Right here in southern Oregon! Go see it, you’ll pay no more than $4. Seriously.

I had a great time at the museum yesterday, and made some new rockhound friends. Speaking of rockhounds, below is what was stapled to the front of my membership packet. My question is, are there higher rankings for how fast you lose them? Because if not, there should be!

Become a rock hound
Extra points if you lose them in one day? In one hour? Why are you laughing?

Fall Update

By

Phew, it’s been a while! I had it in mind to write “article”-type posts here (read: LONG), which I think may have been a mistake, as I’ve missed several “update”-type opportunities to post over the past few months. And now here it is, November, and interesting things have been happening, none of which I’ve told you about!

Here’s a sampling of what I’ve been up to, since July:

I completed my Accredited Jewelry Professional diploma through GIA, which means I can add the words “dangerous enough for retail” to my credentials. Wait. No. It means I can add the initials AJP to my credentials. Sorry about that.

I started Colored Stones at the end of July, and Pearls at the beginning of September; I am nearly done with Pearls now, about halfway through Colored Stones (somewhat behind, in my original estimate; got bogged down with work this fall, which has curtailed the studying significantly.) I am going to Carlsbad next weekend to take the Colored Stone Grading and Pearl Grading labs. I plan to take the Gemstone Identification lab in late January.

Chatham Created emerald crystal
My prize: a Chatham created emerald crystal (a bit over 1/2" long.) I keep it on my desk.

In late September, I had the pleasure of meeting Tom Chatham, of Chatham Created Gems in San Francisco. Tom was very kind, extremely generous with his time, and quite patient with this googly-eyed gemology student (who spent the entire visit with her fingers in a bowl full of synthetic emerald crystals. Don’t judge me. You wouldn’t be able to resist them either!)

Art Deco 26 Carat Star Sapphire Ring at Lang Antiques
Lavender star sapphire ring, Art Deco. Yes, please.

After my visit at Chatham, I made my way over to Lang Antiques and met some of their enthusiastic staff (hard not to be enthusiastic, working with their inventory every day!) I was happy to finally meet the awesome Barbra Voltaire, administrator and gem-goddess of GemologyOnline.com and the helpful GO Forums. (I visited Lang earlier in September, but she was off that day. I did spend some time ogling the stone to your left, which is probably my favorite piece in their inventory. Not sure, but I think I need to be queen of something before I can wear a ring like this.)

Art Deco Onyx and Diamond Locket at Lang Antiques
The back/inside looks as good as the front/outside.

This visit, I spent some quality time with the piece to your right, a fabulous onyx and diamond locket from the Art Deco period. You really must go look at all of the pictures, because the inside is as beautiful as the outside, and the whole thing is just… dreamy. [swoon] Why is it, that I always like the expensive things? Maybe if you work with expensive jewelry every day, you get over it. (I’d like the opportunity to test that theory…)

For the record, Barbra was swooning over the locket, too.

Last but not least, a week from today, I will be joining the GIA Alumni Association’s Los Angeles chapter on a field trip to the famous Stewart Lithia Mine in Pala, CA. I’m going in a mine!! And then I get to sort through mine tailings and look for gems!! I’m ever so excited about all this. (In case you can’t tell.) I hope to have PILES of gems to photograph and post (but really, I’d be happy with just a small handful.)

There’s more to tell, but that will have to wait for the next post. Stay tuned!

Surprised by Diamonds

By

Millennium Star diamond

When I first considered the Graduate Gemology program at GIA, I wasn’t sure how I felt about the diamond courses. Diamonds are a big part of the jewelry industry, naturally; but they weren’t exactly my favorite. Frankly, I wasn’t sure I’d like them much. How mistaken I was! I never could have dreamed how fascinating diamonds are; how beautiful and varied their inclusions, and how many colors they come in! The more I study diamonds, the more I grow to love them and the fascinating things found within them.

One of the first things I found interesting was that diamonds can burn. In hindsight this makes sense — after all, they’re made of carbon, and carbon burns — but until I saw a photo of a burned diamond, I hadn’t thought it possible. The diamond had survived a house fire, but came out looking more like an opal than the hardest substance known to man. I was also interested to learn about laser sawing, cutting and engraving, all of which work on the same principle (burning diamond, but on purpose.) It almost seems like a cheat, after centuries of struggle for even the crudest diamond fashioning. Technology marches on, I suppose.

I knew that diamonds frequently had inclusions, but I had no inkling that said inclusions could be tiny crimson garnets, or vivid green chrome diopside crystals… or other diamonds, for that matter. Thanks largely to the amazing microphotography of John Koivula, I was introduced to interior sights that almost seem fictional. Heart-shaped clouds of microscopic inclusions, unicorn-shaped feathers (breaks within the stone), gems within gems. I had no idea diamonds could be like this!

Langerman Selection colored diamonds poster

Another thing I was quite unprepared for was the range of colors diamonds come in. Some I knew about beforehand — it’s hard to escape knowledge of the Hope Diamond’s existence, I’d seen other lighter blue diamonds, pinks, yellows. But greens? Grays? Reds? Cognac and champagne browns? The range of natural color is staggering, and treatments expand the spectrum further! (I’m generally not “for” treatments or treated stones, but I acknowledge that some people want and like them. Don’t be such a snob, Danielle.)

Given all the colors I’ve just described (also seen in the poster image to your left, click for larger version), you’ll probably think me a weirdo for saying this, but I think the color diamond I’d like to own the most is gray. I’m a big fan of gray and silvery colors, and the thought of a gray diamond… I can hardly stand it. I want one. I’m also fond of the medium to dark steel blue colors, and I’d never say no to a pink diamond, or a cheerful yellow. (Actually, yellow is one of my favorite diamond colors. Really!)

The glamour of handling diamonds in person, in the five-day Diamond Grading Lab, wore off more quickly than I expected. This thrill was replaced by the frustration and pain that is the VVS and VS range of stones — “very very slightly included” and “very slightly included”. Or in other words, “there is something in this stone that is almost impossible for a student to find. Knock yourself out.” (I was going to add onto this that the teacher is secretly laughing at your anguish, but my teacher was extremely nice. And she liked the same Sanrio characters I do, particularly Chococat, which was a little odd. But I digress.)

My ring

I’m fascinated by diamond’s tendency to fluoresce, although none of the diamonds I graded exhibited this phenomenon. (Half the stones in my channel-set wedding band, on the other hand, did — and I have a ghastly iPod picture to prove it! See?)

I completed my requirements for the Graduate Diamonds certificate last month, and came away with a greater appreciation for “that stone” everyone seems to want. No wonder diamond is so popular! Not only is it extremely hard (10 on the Mohs hardness scale, which is 140 times harder than corundum, hardness of 9), but diamonds are formed under extreme temperatures and pressures, and endure when many other things would crumble to dust. No wonder it’s a symbol of love and devotion! With a range of colors, clarity grades and sizes, there is truly a diamond to suit every taste. And I love them all.

A Visit to Harry Winston Fine Jewelry

By

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring

Two weeks ago I was in New York City, taking the GIA Diamond Grading Lab, shopping and enjoying the Big City in general. (Yes, I live in California. Yes, GIA’s Carlsbad campus is much closer than NYC. Long story.)

One evening I set out to visit as many high-end jewelry shops as possible (given that I was in class until 5 pm and most places closed between 6-7 pm.) My first stop was Harry Winston Fine Jewelry (they closed the soonest.) I also visited Cartier, DeBeers and Tiffany & Co, but my best memory from the entire nine-day adventure was my time spent at Harry Winston.

At the other stores, I was more or less ignored upon entering. I browsed around a little, but left each store feeling quite unwelcome. Not so with Harry Winston. The entrance was a bit imposing, and I admit, I had to muster up my courage to go in. I was greeted cheerfully, immediately, by a woman at the front desk. Her kindness gave me the nerve to explain that I was studying diamonds at GIA, and came there to see wonderful things, and would she mind if I looked around? Not at all, she assured me, “and be sure you don’t miss the fancy vivid pink diamond in the back, it’s worth nine million dollars!”

I didn’t need further motivation! After (internally) drooling my way around the room, I settled at the case in the middle, staring at what had to be a D Flawless step-cut diamond. I called over a salesman to ask about the carat weight, gave my “I’m a diamond student, please excuse my googly-eyes” explanation again, and to my delight he took me on a “tour” of everything notable in the room.

Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl, courtesy of PalaGems.com

I saw my first Kashmir sapphire — the most desirable color, the blue other sapphires only dream of being. I saw an ideal-color “milk and honey” cat’s eye chrysoberyl. I saw a fabulous necklace of red spinels ($16M), several mind-blowing emeralds, the above-mentioned fancy vivid pink diamond, and other gems, all fantastic.

At one point, my tour guide and I stood in front of a 40-carat fancy vivid yellow radiant cut diamond set in a ring. (BIG. Fabulous.) I shook my head and asked him, “…how could you even lift your hand?” He paused, and replied, “well… you manage.” “True,” I said. “I’m not unwilling to try!” He laughed.

At the end, I asked for a business card (proof that I’d been there) and was given one, and a promotional book of HW jewelry. I was sent on my way with hearty well-wishes — “Good luck on your final tomorrow! You’ll do FINE!!” The whole thing was vastly encouraging, possibly the nicest retail experience I’ve ever had.

I will never forget you, Harry Winston — your staff is as impressive as your gems, and just as valuable. I walked into your store and was treated like a human being; I walked out feeling fantastic. Thank you for choosing to share your knowledge and enthusiasm, and lift up someone whom other stores chose to ignore.