Surprised by Diamonds

Millennium Star diamond

When I first considered the Graduate Gemology program at GIA, I wasn’t sure how I felt about the diamond courses. Diamonds are a big part of the jewelry industry, naturally; but they weren’t exactly my favorite. Frankly, I wasn’t sure I’d like them much. How mistaken I was! I never could have dreamed how fascinating diamonds are; how beautiful and varied their inclusions, and how many colors they come in! The more I study diamonds, the more I grow to love them and the fascinating things found within them.

One of the first things I found interesting was that diamonds can burn. In hindsight this makes sense — after all, they’re made of carbon, and carbon burns — but until I saw a photo of a burned diamond, I hadn’t thought it possible. The diamond had survived a house fire, but came out looking more like an opal than the hardest substance known to man. I was also interested to learn about laser sawing, cutting and engraving, all of which work on the same principle (burning diamond, but on purpose.) It almost seems like a cheat, after centuries of struggle for even the crudest diamond fashioning. Technology marches on, I suppose.

I knew that diamonds frequently had inclusions, but I had no inkling that said inclusions could be tiny crimson garnets, or vivid green chrome diopside crystals… or other diamonds, for that matter. Thanks largely to the amazing microphotography of John Koivula, I was introduced to interior sights that almost seem fictional. Heart-shaped clouds of microscopic inclusions, unicorn-shaped feathers (breaks within the stone), gems within gems. I had no idea diamonds could be like this!

Langerman Selection colored diamonds poster

Another thing I was quite unprepared for was the range of colors diamonds come in. Some I knew about beforehand — it’s hard to escape knowledge of the Hope Diamond’s existence, I’d seen other lighter blue diamonds, pinks, yellows. But greens? Grays? Reds? Cognac and champagne browns? The range of natural color is staggering, and treatments expand the spectrum further! (I’m generally not “for” treatments or treated stones, but I acknowledge that some people want and like them. Don’t be such a snob, Danielle.)

Given all the colors I’ve just described (also seen in the poster image to your left, click for larger version), you’ll probably think me a weirdo for saying this, but I think the color diamond I’d like to own the most is gray. I’m a big fan of gray and silvery colors, and the thought of a gray diamond… I can hardly stand it. I want one. I’m also fond of the medium to dark steel blue colors, and I’d never say no to a pink diamond, or a cheerful yellow. (Actually, yellow is one of my favorite diamond colors. Really!)

The glamour of handling diamonds in person, in the five-day Diamond Grading Lab, wore off more quickly than I expected. This thrill was replaced by the frustration and pain that is the VVS and VS range of stones — “very very slightly included” and “very slightly included”. Or in other words, “there is something in this stone that is almost impossible for a student to find. Knock yourself out.” (I was going to add onto this that the teacher is secretly laughing at your anguish, but my teacher was extremely nice. And she liked the same Sanrio characters I do, particularly Chococat, which was a little odd. But I digress.)

My ring

I’m fascinated by diamond’s tendency to fluoresce, although none of the diamonds I graded exhibited this phenomenon. (Half the stones in my channel-set wedding band, on the other hand, did — and I have a ghastly iPod picture to prove it! See?)

I completed my requirements for the Graduate Diamonds certificate last month, and came away with a greater appreciation for “that stone” everyone seems to want. No wonder diamond is so popular! Not only is it extremely hard (10 on the Mohs hardness scale, which is 140 times harder than corundum, hardness of 9), but diamonds are formed under extreme temperatures and pressures, and endure when many other things would crumble to dust. No wonder it’s a symbol of love and devotion! With a range of colors, clarity grades and sizes, there is truly a diamond to suit every taste. And I love them all.

A Visit to Harry Winston Fine Jewelry

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring

Two weeks ago I was in New York City, taking the GIA Diamond Grading Lab, shopping and enjoying the Big City in general. (Yes, I live in California. Yes, GIA’s Carlsbad campus is much closer than NYC. Long story.)

One evening I set out to visit as many high-end jewelry shops as possible (given that I was in class until 5 pm and most places closed between 6-7 pm.) My first stop was Harry Winston Fine Jewelry (they closed the soonest.) I also visited Cartier, DeBeers and Tiffany & Co, but my best memory from the entire nine-day adventure was my time spent at Harry Winston.

At the other stores, I was more or less ignored upon entering. I browsed around a little, but left each store feeling quite unwelcome. Not so with Harry Winston. The entrance was a bit imposing, and I admit, I had to muster up my courage to go in. I was greeted cheerfully, immediately, by a woman at the front desk. Her kindness gave me the nerve to explain that I was studying diamonds at GIA, and came there to see wonderful things, and would she mind if I looked around? Not at all, she assured me, “and be sure you don’t miss the fancy vivid pink diamond in the back, it’s worth nine million dollars!”

I didn’t need further motivation! After (internally) drooling my way around the room, I settled at the case in the middle, staring at what had to be a D Flawless step-cut diamond. I called over a salesman to ask about the carat weight, gave my “I’m a diamond student, please excuse my googly-eyes” explanation again, and to my delight he took me on a “tour” of everything notable in the room.

Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl, courtesy of PalaGems.com

I saw my first Kashmir sapphire — the most desirable color, the blue other sapphires only dream of being. I saw an ideal-color “milk and honey” cat’s eye chrysoberyl. I saw a fabulous necklace of red spinels ($16M), several mind-blowing emeralds, the above-mentioned fancy vivid pink diamond, and other gems, all fantastic.

At one point, my tour guide and I stood in front of a 40-carat fancy vivid yellow radiant cut diamond set in a ring. (BIG. Fabulous.) I shook my head and asked him, “…how could you even lift your hand?” He paused, and replied, “well… you manage.” “True,” I said. “I’m not unwilling to try!” He laughed.

At the end, I asked for a business card (proof that I’d been there) and was given one, and a promotional book of HW jewelry. I was sent on my way with hearty well-wishes — “Good luck on your final tomorrow! You’ll do FINE!!” The whole thing was vastly encouraging, possibly the nicest retail experience I’ve ever had.

I will never forget you, Harry Winston — your staff is as impressive as your gems, and just as valuable. I walked into your store and was treated like a human being; I walked out feeling fantastic. Thank you for choosing to share your knowledge and enthusiasm, and lift up someone whom other stores chose to ignore.